Indian Handloom Sarees

Baluchari sari is the most well-known Bengal Silk sari.It is a product of exquisite design and fabulous weaving technique.Produced in the town of Baluchar in Murshidabad district of West Bengal, Baluchari sarees are nation and world wide popular because of their artistic and unique design.'Baluchari' is one of the most popular weaving techniques of Bengal.Silk weaving of Baluchar continues to be an important landmark of Bengal's handloom tradition. Balucharisarees are woven in Bengal silks which are much acclaimed in the world over, since ancient times. Like silk, cotton baluchari sarees are also woven in a fascinating andexquisite range. The cloth is very fine and transparent with a soft drape.The sari has large flowing kalka motifs in the centre surrounded by narrow ornamental borders. Theseare framed by a series of figural motifs worked in rows around the kalkas. These motifs are woven diagonally and are worked in four alternating colours, white, blue, yellow, redand green on a shaded background. The motifs are entirely in silver zari. The most distinctive feature of Baluchari sarees is their elaborate borders and pallu. The Famous Handloom sarees of India are as follows. Baluchari is usually five yards in length. These sarees have colors, which harmonize with one another. You will not find any contrasting colors in it. Even if the sari is red, you will find intricate golden work on it, which will give it an elegant and royal look.Mostly nature designs like flowers, shrubs etc. are woven into the silk base of these sarees. Narrative designs such as people on horses, musicians playing, men and women in various poses are also popular Baluchari designs. Baluchari sarees are rich and sophisticated. They can be worn by young girls, middle-aged women as well as elder women; such is the beauty of the Baluchari.It takes a lot of time and hard labor to weave a Baluchari. Firstly, the silk worms are reared. When they turn into cocoons, the silk thread is extracted from the cocoon. Then the silk threads are processed and dyed in various colors. Then patterns are woven onto the silk, using various threads. Now when you see a Baluchari in a shop, you will know how much time and labor goes into making a single piece.The history of the Baluchari goes back centuries. During the rule of the Mughals, Baluchari was in high demand. It was mostly reserved for the elite class due to its high quality. Only royal families and members of the royal court used to wear Baluchari.Orissa Sambalpuri sarees are some of the most beautiful sarees in India. These Sambalpuri sarees are an unparalleled one. The sarees come in a variety of designs and colours to suit every taste and pocket. In the 1980s, the Sambalpuri sari became an international brand, thanks to substantial non-governmental support and the setting up of weavers' cooperatives. Late Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi became a sort of 'brand ambassador' of the Sambalpuri saree -- it was her favourite attire. Newsreaders on India's national television channel, Doordarshan, turned this saree into an unofficial uniform.Sambalpuri textile is essentially handloom. It is fabricated using tie and dye method. The craftsman conceptualizes the design, draws it and according to the design, he colors the yarn, all by hand. It represents the life and gives a message "Your body may wear but they soul lives for ever". The fabrics once colored cannot be bleached. The fabric may get thin and gradually damage but the colour still does not fade. The fabric is both silk and cotton. Sambalpuri sarees are famous for their unique designs and for their beautiful, effulgent colors. Sambalpuri cotton sarees have a smooth finish and have a distinctly original border and pallu. Fish, conch shell and flower motifs are woven into the fabric. Sometimes floral and animal motifs are also used to decorate the borders and pallu. Silk Sambalpuri sarees from Orissa are also in single and double ikat. In contrast to the ikats of Gujarat, these sarees are sober in color and decorated with curved forms.

Bomkai Sarees:Another variety of saree avaible in Orissa is the Bomkai saree. Produced in a small town called Bomkai in Orissa, these sarees also have touches of ikat work, like the Sambalpuri sarees.Both cotton and silk fabric are used in making Bomkai sarees. For regular wear, cotton bomkai is favoured. A Bomkai Cotton Saree is also an excellent choice for any religious function. Bomkai Silk Sarees are generally worn in formal and semi formal occasions. There are Bomkai sarees with elegant designs, enchanting colors for the exclusive women. Some Bomkai saree have small fishes woven onto the border. Fish symbolizes prosperity and good health. Bomkai sarees feature threadwork ornament borders and pallu. East Indian ladies love to wear Bomkai sarees for their traditional tribal look, as well as their understated and elegant color pallette. A combination of ikat and Bomkai is very unique.Kanjeevaram silk sarees are perhaps the most well known of Indian silk sarees. They are the famous sarees of Tamil Nadu. They are world famous for their royal look and rich feel. The Kanjeevaram sari gets its name from the town it originated in - Kanchipuram, a little temple town in Tamil Nadu. The Kanjeevaram sari is not only the choice for weddings in South India and elsewhere but also worn at all other auspicious and religious occasions. The Kanjeevaramsari is a tradition often passed on from mother to daughter over several generations as an heirloom in much the same way they might pass on jewellery or diamonds. A Kanjeevaram sari is made to last a lifetime.The Kanjeevaram sari is made of a heavy silk called Kanjivaram silk, so durable that it can be washed in water at home. It is one of the most finest and most popular forms of silk in Tamilnadu. Kanjee silk is thicker than almost all other silks, and is therefore more expensive. The heavier the silk, the better the quality. While there are light weight Kanjee sarees made from Korean and Chinese silk, only mulberry silk produced in Karnataka and few parts of Tamil Nadu, is right silk for the classic Kanjeevaram sari.The creation of a Kanjeevaram sari is no easy task. The process begins with the the silk thread being twisted, then dyed and dried in the sun after which it is ready for the weaver's loom. The weaver creates the border, body and pallu separately and then interlocks them together in an impossible to detach joint. A weaver takes about 10-12 days to weave a simple Kanjeevaram sari while decorative ones could take up to 20 days. Kanjeevarams are favoured for their durability.Kanjeevaram silk sarees are always of bold and bright colour contrasts, favoured by almost every Indian woman. the silk; the 'zari' work in the border and the Pallu are generally woven in gold-dipped silver threads. The more the Zari the more expensive you can expect the sari to be.Mysore silk sarees are very popular sarees of South India. Rich Mysore silk sarees can be selected in a variety of color combinations and prints. The traditional Mysore silk sarees may soon be the next product which would put Karnataka on the world map. It will soon become as good as a patented product.Mysore silk is one of the most popular and finest and purest forms of silk. Mysore silk is a famous variety of silk made in Mysore and Bangalore in Karnataka. Known for its extraordinary quality and permanence of luster, it is an integral part of the Karnataka's culture. In this region, people always wear some kind of silk while participating in a ritual. Mysore silk draws its fame from the purity of the silk, its lustre, softness and richness of its natural colour which gave it precedence over all other silks.The weight and the content of gold or silver thread used mainly in the intricate border and the pallau or the headpiece determine the price of the sarees. A saree usually weighs between 400 and 600 grams (15-21 ounces). The silk is dyed using natural pigments and woven into intricate but, subtle patterns featuring motfis of birds or fruits. The painstaking production process by the weavers ensures that every aspect of the saree is perfect.Mysore silk saree with its extraordinary sheen of the fabric, purity of the zari, the distinctive drape, a wonderful non-crush quality, and a butter-soft feel gives a elegant look to anyone who wears it.These classy sarees are not only washable, but also durable. The zari too rarely fades because the yarn used has the maximum gold and silver compared to any silk saree in the country. The intricate zari work on the borders and pallu set them apart. Mysore silk saree is undergoing a makeover with new kasuti embroidery, bandhini designs, rich woven pallus, and with a palette of exciting vibrant colors lilac, ecru, coffee-brown and elephant-grey, and contemporary designs, all inspired by traditional Indian architecture and ancient Indian jewellery. This saree exhibiting a range of rich colors, with golden threads interwoven in it for an enhanced effect, has almost acquired a legendary status due to its sheer beauty and demand.Banarasi sarees are world famous for their royal look and rich feel. This saree is a combination of style, beautiful craftwork and good quality. 'Banarasi Saree' is considered to be the Indian 'SUN' in the world of fashion and has been a subject of great inspiration and appreciation world-wide. It was in the Mughal era Baranasi saree came into popularity and got fashion currency. Today, this Indian fashion sari has witnessed a continuous growth in demand in both Indian and International markets.There are mainly four varieties of Benarasi saree available today. They are Pure silk (katan),Organza (kora) with zari and silk ,Georgette ,Shattir.The Banarasi silk saree is popular for its rich and intricate weave and zari work. Banarasi Sarees have designs with original gold and silver thread. Some of the designs on the body of a banaresi sarees are as follows: Benarasi sarees often depict scenes of villages, fairs, flowers, dancing monkeys and clouds. Traditional designs remain the base appeal for Benarasi sarees. There are also temple and mosque designs. They come up in all shades. Most brocades usually have designs that exhibit Mughal patterns such as intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs, kalga and bel.A distinct feature found along the inner, and sometimes outer, edge of borders in this saree is a narrow fringe like pattern that often looks like a string of upright leaves called jhallr.The pallus of these sarees have elaborate pure gold and silver designs densely woven with gold and multicolor thread which lend the saree its elegance. Its major attraction lies in colorful dying of silk fabric. The brocade that is used in producing these sarees are Amru silk brocades which are world famous. Jamvar, Navrangi (nine colors), Jamdani etc. are other brocade types from the range of Banarasi sarees. Owing to its beautiful designs and colors, a banarasi silk sari always has come to occupy a special place among buyers, throughout the world. The people with rich taste love the beauty and intricate design of the Banarasi sarees as these are very elegant and gorgeous.

Bandhani and bandhej sarees are typical of the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Bandhani sarees created by dyeing the cloth in such a manner that the tied 'spots' produce elaborate patterns over the fabric. Bandhani sarees have won lot of appreciation in the fashion market.Simple bandhani sarees are basically in cottons and are ideal for the Indian summers. There are also silk or chiffon bandhani sarees with sequins or zari work. Bandhani is a handwork, which involves tying and dying of cloth. To create the Bandhani designs, the Bandhej process involves tightly tying a string or "dori" around certain areas of the fabric and then dipping it in to a dye. After a short while, the fabric is taken out of the dye and the string is removed. On opening the fabric, you will see that the areas covered by the string have retained their original color while the rest of the fabric has been dyed. Bandhani work, after the processing is over, results into a variety of symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. The tying of cloth with thread and then dying it is the simplest and perhaps the oldest form of creating patterns on a plain piece of cloth.The dominant colors in Bandhani sarees are bright like yellow, red, green and pink. Maroon is also popular. But with changing times, as Bandhani has become a part of fashion, various pastel colors and shades are being used. Single colour sarees with white spots are also common. There are bandhani sarees with contrast colours, with zori borders. The various tye and dye designs on bandhani sarees are Bandhej, Lehriya, Batik, Mothra, Ekdali, Shikari, Cheent.

The Chikan Saree of Lucknow is perhaps one of the most popular embroidered saree in India. It has a certain grace and elegance, which ensures that it never goes out of style.Chikan is a traditional embroidery style. It is a form of hand embroidery with pattern, of predominantly different designs, stitched using untwisted white cotton or silk (and now rayon) threads on the surface of the fabric. It is said to have been originally introduced by Nur Jahan, the beautiful wife of the Mughal emperor, Jahangir. It has since evolved and attained its glory and perfection in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. Chikan Sarees are perfect for any kind of regular occasion. Chikan sarees are simple but give a classy look to anyone who wears it. Generally, the sarees are light earth colours and pastel shades. Traditionally, the threads used are in the same colour as the fabric. The self color embroidery looks rich on every age group and color. Nowadays, you also have chikan sarees with contrast colours in the body and the embroidery. Patterns and effects created depend on types of stitches used and the thickness of the threads used in embroidery. The variety of stitches used are back-stitch, chain stitch and hemstitch. The major type of Chikan work done today are Taipchi, Bakhia, Phanda, Murri, Jali, Hatkati, Pechni, Ghas Patti, Chaana Pati etc. The chikan embroidered sarees with their incredible embroidered patterns are collector's items.

Original Source:

For more information on Handloom, Handwoven Industry of India, Visit Indian Handloom Cluster @Fibre2fashion

Posted in: Baluchari sari,Banarasi sarees,Bandhani saree,Bomkai Sarees,Chikan Saree,Handloom Cluster,Indian handloom cluster,Indian Handloom Sarees,Kanjeevaram silk sarees,Orissa Sambalpuri sarees