Protecting handloom from powerloom & mechanised sector

To protect handlooms from Powerlooms and mechanized sector, the Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985 is being implemented by the Ministry. Under the Act 11 textile articles are at present reserved exclusively for production on handlooms (with certain technical specifications.)

The Enforcement Offices of the O/o the D. C. Handlooms, Weavers Service Centers and State Governments/UTs are regularly inspecting Powerlooms and Mills to prevent violation of the provisions of he the Act.

In addition to this, Central Assistance is also given to 09 State Governments to set up an Enforcement Machinery in the state to ensure that there is no violation of the Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985. These nine States are namely Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal, Gujarat, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, Haryana, Tamil Nadu, Uttar Pradesh and Kerala.

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Innovative Printing on Handloom Cotton Fabric

Handloom forms a precious part of the generational legacy and exemplifies the richness and diversity of our culture and artistry of the weavers. Tradition of weaving by hand is a part of the countrys cultural ethos. It represents an ancient craft with rich heritage providing a great source of sustenance for millions of artisans. It is estimated that handloom industry provides employment to approximately 65 lakhs workforces directly or indirectly and about 35 lakhs of handlooms in numerous varieties are scattered all over the country. The element of art and craft present in Indian handlooms makes it a potential sector for the upper segments of domestic and global markets. Handloom sector has been catering fully to the domestic niche and cheap markets, as well as value-added exports in the international markets and are still playing a vital role owing to its indispensable performance for the special quality of products mainly either of silk or of cotton fibres with adequate aristocracy. Handloom is unparalleled in its flexibility and versatility, permitting experimentation and encouraging innovation. However, in the present context of globalization and rapid technological developments, handloom sector is beset with many challenges and the handloom products are being replicated on powerlooms at much lower price. There is a need to strengthen this sector given the employment potential and market demand for handloom products. Hence product diversification through innovative printing is very much essential for the survival of this rich cultural heritage of India. Innovative and novel designs can be produced on handloom cotton fabric by adopting different innovative printing methods without involving costly infrastructure to create fancy effect on the handloom products for the ever changing fashion market.

Introduction

Handloom textiles constitute a timeless facet of the rich cultural heritage of India. Handloom sectors have been acknowledged by everyone as the biggest source of employment and is a traditional profession being practiced in India for centuries together. This sector occupies a place second only to agriculture in providing livelihood to the people. It is estimated that handloom industry provides employment to 65 lakh workforces directly or indirectly and there are about 35 lakh handlooms spread all over India. The production of handloom fabrics is estimated to be approximately 6536 million square meters during 2006-07 (Annual Report 2007-08, Ministry of Textile) and contributes 16% of total textile production in India. The element of art and craft present in Indian handlooms makes it a potential sector for the domestic niche and cheap markets, as well as value-added exports in the international markets. It is expected that with increasing population and prosperity, the domestic and international market size will expand and per capita consumption will increase. The sector has an edge over the powerloom and mill sectors in its ability to commercially produce the goods in small volumes, openness to innovations, switch over to new designs, adoptability to suit suppliers requirement and creation of exquisite design. However, in the present context of globalization, the sector is beset with manifold problems and challenges. With the technological developments, the handloom products are being increasingly replicated on powerlooms at much lower cost. Hence product diversification through weaving and innovative printing is very much essential for the survival of handloom sector. Weaving on handlooms is predominantly cotton; the future yarn consumption pattern is expected to be equality shared between cotton and other fibres.

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Indian Handlooms - From the Charkha to Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week

'Indian Handlooms', a term that spells exquisity, ebullience and enunciate a multifarious equip of excogitating designs, both ethnic and modernistic. Providing livelihood to 90 million people, the level of artistry and intricacy achieved by Indian handloom fabrics is unparalleled and beyond the scope of modern machinery, preserving its heritage and culture.

With a long tradition of excellence in its craftsmanship, Indian handloom is said to have dated back to the ancient ages. The earliest Indian fragment of cloth (before the Christian era) with a hansa (swan) design was excavated from a site near Cairo. Later excavations from Harappan sites revealed a scrap of coarse madder dyed cloth and a terracotta spindle whorls which evidenced their expertise over handlooms, Indian handlooms, to be more specific.

The turning point of Indian handlooms and its weavers is said to be Indias independence i.e. 15th of august, 1947. The Charkha acted as a symbol of national regeneration, as propagated by Mahatma Gandhi, and the focus on the weavers of Indian handlooms during the Indian freedom movement was largely responsible for the breakthrough. And at the dawn of independence, Indian handloom industry became the largest cottage industry of the country, a point of recognition which is still maintained.

Indian handlooms cater to the needs of a diverse cultural ethos ranging from exquisite fabrics to popular items of mass production for daily use. A village without a weaver is a myth in the Indian scenario; millions of looms across the country are busy producing the traditional beauty of a precious heritage called Indian handlooms.

Undoubtedly cotton gave the splendid weavers of Indian handloom their resplendent expression but silk and woolen cloths also originated during the pre-Vedic era, endemic to India. In the world of handlooms there are muslin of Chanderi, silk brocades of Varanasi, the ikats from Andhra and Orissa, the tie and dye from Rajasthan and Gujrat, the phulkari and khes of Punjab, jacquards from Uttar Pradesh, the phenek, tongam and bottle designs from Assam and Manipur, and lots more.

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