Banarasi Brocades: Fantasies Woven in Threads

Banarasi brocade boasts of the traditional culture and the narration of rich Indian textiles, which is true. It has been a substance of admiration for all and from the times of Kingdoms and Palaces to the todays modish ethnicity.

Introduction

Banarasi Brocade is said to have its origin from the very older times like Buddhist period. There is also a second statement that it has its origins from Mughal Empire during 14^th Century. Women were too much fascinated towards these fabrics, who have been attiring cottons since long time. Banaras is the center of silk weaving in India since time immemorial. The work is highly practiced in this region by the large number of communities. They work on Jaala looms. There were two types of materials, the former being the kinkhab which had immense weight to wear and was hence used for trappings, hangings and furnishing. The stuff which incorporated Zari patterns were light in weight, considered most appropriate for clothing and were considered as genuine brocades.

Brocades are the textile which has a regular weaving where the weft thread passes over the warp normally. Usually, when a gold and silver thread is densely woven with the textile thread special threads are riveted in between by omitting along the channel of the standard weft over a definite quantity of warp threads according to the pattern and omitting is done regularly through set type of patterns. The heddles so arranged, on different occasions, elevate and depress asymmetrical threads in turn, as required in the pattern.

Different Varieties of Banarasi legend

Selects of Banarasi saris that are available in the market are Tanchoi, Jangla, Vaskat, Cutwork, Tissue, and Butidar that are made of silk weft and brocaded with additional weft styles in different outputs with designs like buties, bells, creepers and buttas in the base or on the border for alluring look. Nuptials are sanctified with brocade draperies glowing all over the bride. These fabrics hold the importance of playing a chief role in the most blissfully blessed venerated moments of our life

Silk Jamdani Saree- The silk Jamdani is a scientific array of brocade conventionally woven in Banaras and one of the premium products to come out of the looms of Banaras. Silk fabric is brocaded with cotton and hardly ever with zari threads. Jamdani is woven by transfixing the pattern thread between a changeable numbers of warp threads in fraction to the dimension of the design, throwing the shuttle to go by the normal weft. This process is repeated wherein the dimension and insertion of the thread is according to the nature of the pattern. Jamdani is characterized by complex designs.Jangla Saree- This is made by brocading styles in bright silk threads amidst the gold and silver motifs of the brocade cluster. Jangalas rowdy motifs are amongst the eldest in Banaras brocades. All over Jal Jangla design to get the stylish work of the sarees and also used meena work for the decoration of the fabrics. The exclusive design saree has long duration accomplished work; costly fabrics are extensively acknowledged during the wedding juncture.

Tanchoi Saree- These saris are woven using vibrant colours and extra weft silk yarn in different pattern. This variety is known as tanchoi. The field has a densely spread minute diaper of Jamawar style paisley. The end panel has large motifs of multiple paisley forms-one growing out of the other. The borders and the cross-borders of the end section, generally have minute paisley climbing patterns. Tanchoi fabric has a momentous eminence in India as well as around the globe.

Tissue Saree- The renowned Zari brocade weavers of Banaras have evolved a technique of weaving tissue material which looked like golden cloth. By running Zari in weft a combination of Zari and silk in extra-weft (pattern thread) and silk in warp, the weave of this sari has densely patterned with golden lotuses floating in a glimmering pond. The 'drops of water' are created by cut work technique. The borders and the end panel have a diaper of diamond patterns enclosed by a border of running paisley motifs. Tissue saris are most popular as wedding saris among the affluent. Tissue sari has glazed, shining character due to the use of real gold Zari/Silver Zari in weft on silk warp ground are ornamented with the particulars traditional design such as Jangla Butidar, Shikargah menadar etc.

Cutwork Saree- This saree is all set by cut work technique on plain base after eliminating the hovering thread which is not woven during the weaving process giving a transparent look. Cut-work is the cheaper adaptation of the Jamdani. In cut work the pattern is made to run from selvage to selvage letting it suspend freely between two motifs and the extra-thread is cut by hand, giving the effect of Jamdani

Saree- The most eye-catching characteristic of this pattern is that it is brocaded with threads in gold, and silver and silk. Due to darker shade of gold and lighter of silver, this variety of patterning in brocade is conventionally known as Ganga-Jamuna, signifying the meeting of these two rivers which have dark and light shades of water. The main motif of this pattern is a flower or a bouquet of flowers. A somewhat smaller and dappled bouquet is spread all over the base.

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